From http://natureandwildlifephotography.blogspot.com/
I should have done it sooner - I knew both my main cameras were acting up a little and had focus problems. Over the last few years I have sent in every camera I've owned except the Fuji S5 (D200 with different guts/sensor)- probably because I don't have a lot of wear on it.
My D300s is a year old (I think) and was doing ok but then started to focus hunt and then stop - and had trouble being "Accurate". Having had trouble in the past, I tried the same lens on my D300 and had somewhat better luck (but a different problem). So I began to use my D300 for action / birds in flight. I sent in the D300s to be tuned, cleaned, and calibrated - and they did just that and it works much better now. Nikon service fixed it for free, doing the work under warranty.
The D300s was still functional but didn't perform well. So I found myself juggling bodies for action and then video - because the D300s does video and the D300 doesn't. That finally got old, and with the summer wrapping up, and fall just around the corner I got the D300s fixed. It has about 48,000 shots on it now.
Now the D300.
This camera has been in for service now 3 times. It has over 120,000 shots on it and I've used it for around 3 years. The first time I sent it in was for the same type of focus trouble that the D300s had - hunting, bad performance, and giving up trying to focus without having gained focus. The second time was when a sensor for the mirror went bad - the mirror would bounce during the shutter/exposure, and would then stay UP, not down. The camera was a couple years old and I think I had to pay for the repair. But when I got it back the focus points didn't line up with the actual focus.
It was strange, if you selected the center focus point it would often appear to be ok, but in fact it was getting focus from just to the left and down about a sensor's width and height over. There were two very specific hints that something was very wrong with the camera when I got it back. The screen cover for the back of the camera was cracked.
Then about 2 weeks later I noticed that the hotshoe wouldn't accept a flash - it was bent a bit and the flash didn't fit. It was then I knew the camera had been dropped. I didn't drop it, and I doubt HIGHLY that Nikon Service would drop it and wrap it up and send it back. So, since it was boxed and in bubble wrap, the only way it could have happened during the repair process - was if the store I sent it back via had done it. They must have got the camera back, and during the unboxing processes dropped it, it bounced, cracked the screen, bent the hot shoe, and what took the most time to discover - WHACKED the focus alignments/calibration.
I won't name the store, but they've got a history of being jerks in my local community - and they won't be getting any of my business any more.
So, when I sent it in asking for cleaning and adjustments, and calibration to fix focus, and the misaligned focus points, nearly a year later, I expected Nikon Service to charge me. But THEY are good. Unlike the store that broke stuff and pretended nothing happened - Nikon Service just fixed it under the old repair warranty. Now that's nice, not to have to complain, or beg, or pay for it to be made right.
I shot this with the repaired D300s - it's at 400mm and 1/160th of a second.
One big thing to consider is that focus is a fickle thing - and it impacts how VR performs. VR uses focus as part of its math (from what I've heard) - so having a poorly performing focus system may make VR less effective. Before I had the camera recently repaired getting a good infocus, sharp shot like the above was very hard. They all seemed to just be off a little.
I don't know if it will be very noticeable in this osprey photo taken with the broken camera months ago - because it is one of the better ones, but the focus is just behind the head, more towards the body. What I found, probably the hardest case for a camera to focus well in, is that for birds in flight, where the distance is changing, ie toward the camera, a poorly performing camera will not do well. I think it lags behind, and might seem to be "back-focus" but it is more likely "lag-focus" where the camera is just behind in its calculations, and can't get it right / or perfect, and the movement makes it visible.
This spring and summer I literally took thousands of birds in flight shots that left me wanting more, better focus, sharper detail... Having been out shooting now just a couple weeks with the repaired D300s - I found it much better at doing a good job. And even in the hardest cases - like seeing a flying bird and wipping up the camera/lens and trying to get focus before it vanishes from view - it did ok, fast, and accurately. The repaired D300s even did ok on far off moving birds in FOG! Fog is rough, and it did ok.
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~4 years ago I broke my D70s with about 45,000 shots on it - breaking the shutter! Nikon fixed it for free. Since then the card reader/writer died, and it randomly takes a shot and turns the card in to jibberish and writes random stuff to it. I haven't had it fixed, but I still have it. The electronic shutter (aka strobist hackable) makes it worth it - some day I will pursue getting that repaired.
~1 year ago I had my D200 refurbished - cleaned, tuned, adjusted, and had the rubber-grip replaced so it looked like new! And they only charged me around ~240 if I recall correctly. That camera had around 160,000 shots on it at the time.
I am pretty ready for fall now. The D300 will be back in my hands probably in a week. All I need to get tuned up is my 80-400mm which probably needs gears replaced because I have really beaten it up over the years and it doesn't focus well, and no where near as cleanly as a new 80-400mm (I've borrowed a friends).
The Take Away - get your gear (mainly body) tuned, cleaned, and focus-adjusted every year if you shoot a lot, and every couple years if you shoot some. And if you think your camera isn't performing, focus, metering, etc, properly, SEND IT IN right away.
Sending stuff to Nikon now - I use UPS and insure for the replacement cost, and Nikon Service in Melville NY is very fair and does a great job.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Gear Tune Up - Success
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Play, Let Go, Have Fun
I made it to the County Fair last night. The festive nature got me in the mood to let go a little. Sure I brought a tripod and a camera and a few lenses, and filters, and a cable release and...
But after a while, a few hundred shots, and a lap around the area having seen and shot everything at least once - I started to play.
A few of the things this involved were - hand holding long exposures, taking shots were the horizon was not level on purpose, and then really tossing it all aside and zooming the lens during the exposure, spinning the camera during the exposure, and even doing both of those plus trying to pan on moving rides/subjects.
Landscape and Wildlife Photography - shooting, the gear, the techniques involved, it can all be so technical. Do this to improve that, try this to avoid that, make sure this or that is sharp, this is out of focus, etc, etc.
It was nice to for a brief while play around and see what the results were later. In around 4 hours I took just under a thousand shots. It was around shot 500 that I began to play more and more.
--
I got to the fair about 45 minutes before sunset and it worked out perfectly. I was able to check everything out with some day light, shoot the sunset and rides w/ lights and then shooting everything in the night sky/dark.
It was fun.
I started the night bracketing shots 3 or 5 clicks per, then changed to shooting 2 shot brackets of 0ev and +1ev, in aperture mode. This helped by adjusting the exposure to the changing light as I went along, and by changing the amount of time the shutter was open without having to think about it too much. I adjusted the base EV to tweak the exposures a little, but still let the camera meter things. Most shots were taken with the Nikon 18-200mm VR and with the Vari-ND filter.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Don't use the focus limiter feature of long lenses
From http://natureandwildlifephotography.blogspot.com/
There was a time that I always used the limiter. Now pretty much never.
This guy wouldn't let me approach close at all. If I tried to walk towards him he'd fly away at 50 feet! After that happening twice, the next time I saw him at more than 50 feet, I laid down and waited for him to come to me and he did. The above is at about 40 feet. He got to inside of 10.
One of the reasons I now do not use the focus limiter at all on my telephoto lenses is that shots of far away stuff is easy, and I want close stuff. When the close stuff presents itself I do not want to be fumbling over a limiter switch. It makes the lens hunt more, or spend more time hunting through the range of focus - but it is one of the things I've changed in my approach to focus in the last year. I'd much rather miss the far away stuff than the close stuff.
With birds close often happens in just a few wing beats. For the above I was prone and trying to balance the lens, not show myself to the heron, and keep shooting as he kept getting closer and closer...
There's nothing much more frustrating then hoping and trying for close encounters and then having the camera or lens get in the way of taking those close photos...
FB / twitter
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Saturday, July 10, 2010
Gear - multiple bodies
From http://natureandwildlifephotography.blogspot.com/
I try not to write about gear too much. Gear should work, not be the focus of major thought or discussion, and be the tools used to do something - take images.
There's a funny reply to the comment "wow great photo, what kind of camera do you have?" - something like "would you ask Shakespeare what of kind of pen he had?" The tools play a part, but they don't do the thing, they don't automate the making of great images.
Time and effort is best spent focusing on learning about subjects, locations, photographic techniques. Time should be spent researching, appreciating the work of others, and trying to grow as a photographer.
All that said, I just read a very good review by Thom on the 200-400mm VR lens. And then just a day later I read the very brief (too brief in my mind to really count for a review) of the new 200-400mm VR2 lens by Trey.
read more...
I agree with pretty much everything Thom said about the lens in his review. Great lens, and have issues, and struggles at 400mm for long distance shooting, and struggles even more with converters. But close up to medium distances it is great. Thom also noted much of the time he used the lens he used different bodies, as new ones became available, and very often got varying results.
Having Multiple Bodies
There are multiple benefits to having more than one Digital SLR. The most obvious of which is that you can be out shooting and have two lenses mounted and ready to go. One might have a short zoom, and the other a long telephoto. Like I said, that's the most obvious of reasons to have 2 cameras.
Assuming the cameras are from the same manufacturers (same lens mount), and might share the same batteries (like many Nikons) - there's the benefit of swappable batteries, multiple chargers, similarities in menu systems and controls, etc.
A second body is also great as a backup. Most of the time you can only shoot with one camera at a time, so, you only really NEED one camera, which makes the second camera often best thought of as a standby in case the first camera breaks, fails, dies, etc. I've bought 5 digital SLRs and more than a couple times I've had to send one in to be repaired. Actually, I never send the D70s in to be fixed. It has trouble writing to the memory card, and some times writes jibberish. The D200, D300 both went in for focus issues, and the D300 more than once. The D300 actually also had a sensor die that detects the state of the mirror (it would stick UP).
In reading Thom's review, and remembering some of the problems I've had with gear, it reminded how good it can be to have a second body. Focus performance can be a very frustrating thing to investigate. Thom said that for his 200-400mm lens the major thing regarding focus was the body, not the lens. I agree.
Last year I wondered and worried about my D300 and 200-400mm VR and the focus or lack of focus performance I was getting. As part of that I wound up going back to shoot with my old D200 and was shocked to discover that the D200 was working better for fast focus tracking.
I sent the D300 in to be "fixed" and they tuned it, cleaned it, and also set everything to the opposite of how I had it (release priority, small jpg, 9-point, blah blah).
Recently I've been using my D300s and have had some strange focus problems. With the 200-400mm I've had it hunt briefly for focus, and then give up. I scratched my head for a while, and then tried the D300 and the problem went away, it was working properly. Most likely for my issues with focus it is my gear and it is that I let my gear get dirty and I push my expectations to where I should probably get a pro level body like a D3...
So, my post was motivated by this discovery, and I finally got to the point. Having more than one camera to use allows for an entirely different set of tests you can try to see if it is you, or the lens, or the camera, or the conditions you're shooting in, or maybe nothing is wrong and everything is behaving as best as can be expected. With one camera and a problem, you might never be able to figure it out, because you have no other camera body to make a comparison to.
Focus problems with a pro-sumer level dSLR is a very common thing. I've had questions and some times actual focus problems with all my gear - as early as with the D70s and Tamron 18-200mm. Back then it was me, and my novice ways. I didn't understand focus, auto-focus, and it works be "Seeing" contrast. Try focusing on the sky or a brightly lit white wall without features - there no contrast and the camera will hunt and find nothing. Auto-focus works by seeing a change in brightness levels (contrast) and adjusting the focus until there is a sharp or distinct transition (my un-technical description). Cameras use two type of focus sensor, straight-line sensors and 2 perpendicular straight-line sensors grouped together as one.
That's auto-focus 101. When things start to get complicated is for moving subjects, placement in the frame, the direction of the movement, the speed of the movement, and the settings and horsepower of the camera itself. Trying to figure those things out and what works best and when isn't easy.
Being able to rule out a faulty or dirty or mis-configured or mishandled camera and lens is a huge thing. Not everyone will push their gear to the limits. I don't travel to Alaska or Africa, or other exotic places, but I do seem to push things.
Birds in flight or sports are probably a couple of the most demanding focus situations to shoot in. And birds are probably harder since they are small and can move in all directions while for most sports the subjects remain on or close to the ground.
If you are upgrading to a newer camera, keep the old one. If you have a good camera now, consider buying another lesser one, used, and keep it around as second to shoot with or test things out when you run in to problems.
5 years ago I felt I really spend a lot and was done buying gear when I bought my first dSLR, a D70s and a single lens. That was 2005, now it is 2010 and I shoot with 3 bodies often taking 2 out on a day. The Fuji S5 is great for high dynamic range shooting and makes a nice landscape camera. For everything else I use either a D300 or D300s, and usually it's the D300s since I can switch to video.
Monday, July 5, 2010
DC Fireworks July 4th 2010
From http://natureandwildlifephotography.blogspot.com/
Yesterday was the 4th of July and I made my second serious attempt to shoot the DC fireworks.
Like any major event downtown or nearby Washington DC it takes the right mindset and a plan to avoid unplanned pitfalls or something which might make the night a bust. For the 4th of July the things to plan for are the spot to shoot from, transportation to and from there, and having the right gear and supplies to make it somewhat comfortable.
I was leaning towards trying to shoot from near the Iwo Jima Memorial and did just that. I started surveying the area, road closures, access to various places around 1PM - a full 8 hours before the fireworks. I parked in a grassy area setup by the park police near the entrance to Arlington National Cemetery when heading north on the George Washington Parkway. By 2:30 or so I had walked to the Iwo Jima Memorial and picked a spot in the shade to wait and finalize my plans from. By around 7PM the area started to get fairly busy and I picked my final spot - where I took this shot looking back up the hill from.
For supplies I packed a Gatorade, 4 frozen waters, a soda and some trail-mix.
read more...
For gear I packed my D300 and D300s, 80-400mmVR and 18-200mmVR and my two tripods. I also had a cable release and stereo microphone. Last fall I got a VariND, a variable Neutral Density filter and I brought that, and a circular polarizer too. I also brought a bag chair, and a couple of camera bags to carry the stuff in. In all I probably had like 30 pounds of stuff, maybe more.
I posted this one last night right after I got home. It might be the best of the night I got.
What Worked Well
The gear I picked was enough. Lol, I brought a ton, but I did leave another camera home (Fuji S5) and a video camera. Since I knew I'd be walking a lot and heading back to my car in the dark, I didn't bring my 200-400mm. It is a great somewhat fast lens but is huge and weighs a lot. The 80-400mm worked better because I had a ND filter for it, and could shoot long exposures without having to stop down to f/18 or more and go past the sharp range of the lens (and avoid highlighting dust spots on my sensor).
Part way in to shooting I had to adjust my exposures a bit and remembered something from a podcast I had just listened to regarding low ISO. Nikon makes the ISOs below 200 low-1, 2 and 3. The reason these are low is that below ISO 200 the camera doesn't perform as well, possibly with more noise than at ISO 200. So I adjusted my ISO up to ISO 200.
The VariND on the 80-400mm lens also worked well. I wound up using it to adjust my exposure once I was setup and rolling. I chimped some shots, and increased the ND a bit.
While reviewing last year's images I realized I was not zoomed in nearly enough. This year I made sure to try to get tighter shots, more full frame. Part of my thinking was that fireworks are set off all over the country, but the thing that makes seeing them in Washington DC so special is the surroundings / the monuments, the Capital Building, etc. I did way better than last year, but it wasn't until almost the end that I zoomed in on the 80-400 past around 250 or 300mm.
What Didn't Work Well
Operating two cameras led to many more shots than what I could have done with just one camera. However I think I did two things wrong. I had the tripods very close and touching eachother, or at least the stuff I had hanging from the tripods (to add weight) were touching. This led to shooting with one camera and adjust the other and moving that first camera a bit. I have some images that show movement in the camera.
I shot in manual focus on both cameras. This speeds things up, prevents focusing on close trees and makes for consistency. However, I didn't pay close enough attention on the 18-200mm and D300s and a large group of early shots are out of focus, focused closer than what I wanted.
Shooting two cameras at the same time isn't something I've ever done like this, so all in all I did ok.
What I Might Try Differently Next Year
Shooting from near the Iwo Jima Memorial was pretty cool. I got the shots I wanted and had planned for. Getting all 3 Washington icons in tight formation was what I'd seen in my minds eye.
Next year I might see about shooting from downtown DC or somewhere else. I've seen some shots from behind the Capital building looking west that were very good, and made the Capital build the major "dc" element...
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Nikon D300 14-bit RAW/NEF Goodness - Great Falls Maryland
I just said this in another post, but, Great Falls National Park is one of my favorite places in the world. It's located just about a half hour from me, and I get there often, especially this time of year when sunset is late in the day, and I can make it there after work for sunset. Tonight's sunset was after ~8:40PM.
I've been in to HDR processing for a while. Read on for how I've used my FujiFilm S5 in the past for this, and now use the Nikon D300 14-bit RAW/NEF files for this.
Nikon D300 14-bit RAW
Here's the 3 exposures I output from a single Nikon D300 14-bit RAW/NEF file:
-2.3EV
0EV (as shot)
+2.3EV
And here's the final image, HDR processed single RAW file and cropped, posted on flickr:
I've made a couple of HDRs via a single RAW file with my FujiFilm S5 Pro as well. Here's one from Sunrise at Blackwater:
And Tai Shan at the US National Zoo:
Both of those were exported at different exposures (multiple) and merged in Photomatix.
I'm pretty happy with both camera's ability to log a pretty wide range of data. Normally I don't much care for RAW files, but when trying to specifically capture a high dynamic range, it seems like a great approach.
Why not just bracket some JPGs? Well, I did that for a while, but with motion, getting a multi-photo merge to look perfect isn't that easy. When using a single image, that problem goes away. If that one file has enough data to "add stops" to the output image, it'll work better.
-Jon
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Thursday, May 15, 2008
Nikkor 80-400mm VR - Get The Most Out Of This Lens
On flickr I get asked frequently about the 80-400mm lens, and often share info freely with other photographers. It's probably got something to due with the flickr tag and the rank of some of my images for the 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D VR. 
Of the top 60 images currently only 9 are NOT mine. Anyway, I'm writing this as a resource for more photographers to hopefully benefit from.
I've heard that the Nikkor (Nikon) 80-400mm D VR lens is the first VR lens that made by Nikon. I've had it for about 2 years now, have probably taken over 100,000 images with it. (I've got 4 dSLRs and am at around 180,000 clicks or so.)
Before I got the 80-400mm and again after I got it I read some reviews from various sources. Some reviewers liked it, others hated it and returned it within hours because it is "soft".
My take on the lens is that for the money (well under $2,000 US) it is a great lens for many reasons. Read the rest of my review/guide for what works well (and what doesn't), and how to get the most out of this lens.
To start, here's how I normally setup and shoot with the lens.
In General
Hand-Hold
As of May 2008 about 85% of my images are taken hand holding the lens. About 13% of my photos were taken with a monopod, and the remaining 2% are from a tripod. So, mostly I hand-hold with the lens.
AF-S
With my both my D200 and D300 I mostly shoot in continuous focus mode (AF-C) and tend to use just the center focus point (with group assist on the D200, or 13 or 21 or whatever point assistance on the D300. I try not to be too caught up in the technical exactness, as you may have wondered from that last sentence....
No Filters
UV - For quite some time I have not used a UV filter on this lens. I have gotten a minor mark on the front element as a result, but you cannot see it in any images. A UV filter is only useful in my mind for a protective cover over the lens while you're not using the lens. While on the lens it will add another piece of glass that will degrade image quality and possibly affect focus.
Circular Polarizer - For quite a while I used a Circular Polarizer with the lens. But for about a year now I've not. The same problem as the UV filter applies (see above) but there's a much worse problem with the CP filter. It blocks two stops of light. That's how a CP filter works, it blocks light from certain directions, to produce its effect. A Circular Polarizer filter can be great for landscapes, or setup shots. But for tracking wildlife, getting focus on a moving subject, you lose way too much light to make the effect worth it. At 400mm the lens is at f/5.6. This is the standard minimum f/stop that Nikon cameras are rated for to get accurate focus. With the polarizer on the minimum f/5.6 goes to about f/11 worth of light. Expecting a Nikon body to track focus at 2 stops under its recommended rating is asking too much, even in decent light. So, ditch the polarizer!
The next set of things I do are based on the available light.
Poor to Moderate Light
The down side to this lens is that it needs light. When light's not that great I shoot close to wide open at f/5.6 or f/6.3 in Aperture Priority mode. Then to get a decent shutter speed I boost ISO. In these lighting conditions I might shoot at ISO 400 to ISO 1000, or sometimes even higher. If you're worried about noise, answer this: Would you rather have a sharp-noisy image or a blurred noise-free image? All things being equal I prefer some noise to some blur. So I make sure I am shooting at a minimum of 1 over focal length over (ie 200mm = 1/200, or 400mm = 1/400). One way to come close to this is to shoot in Auto ISO at the D200 or D300's maximum shutter setting of 1/250th minimum. When doing this I set the ISO to around 400, and then let the ISO climb as needed probably to ISO 1600. Here are two decent examples of this at work:
ISO 1600 @ 1/100 and 230mm
ISO 900 @ 1/250th and 400mm
Good to Great Light
When the light is good, the lens is at its best. I will usually shoot at ISO 200 to ISO 400 and stop the lens down to a minimum of f/7.1 and for great light f/8 or f/11. Most of the time I will target a maximum shutter speed of about 1/1000th, and then give the rest of the light to the f/stop setting. I shoot in Aperture mode almost all the time. The problem I have with shooting in Shutter Mode in these conditions is if I set it to 1/1000 and that produces around f/9 and then I move on to a shaded area, or a cloud passes over, etc, I might be at f/5.6 and 1/1000th, not what I would pick. While Aperture mode alone won't fix this problem, I guess I am just used to shooting and adjusting the f/stop when the light changes... The main thing this lens needs to perform well is the right f/stop and a decent shutter speed.
These setting will apply to just about any camera and lens combination, but for me on my D200 and D300 here's what I do. Generally I shoot wildlife, birds, moving subjects, etc.
Camera Settings
AF-C - Continuous-Focus mode - For moving subject you have to be in AF-C. Simple as that.
AF-C and AF-S mode - These two settings can be found under a1 and a2 and they need to be set to Focus Priority. When in Release Priority the camera will let you take out of focus images. I want my images IN focus.
JPG Compression Mode I use JPGs about 98% of the time for my images, and the compression mode makes a huge difference. Be sure to have this set for Image Quality, NOT File Size. Also, if you want the best JPG image possible from the camera make sure the camera is set to Large and Fine. If you shoot in RAW these settings don't apply. For me, the extra file overheard and processing time is almost never worth it.
Misc
VR - 99% of the time I use the VR in position 1, which only activates the VR when an image is taken. The other mode enables preview with VR on when the shutter is half-pressed. The two problems with this is it uses more battery power, and when panning it can result in things creeping out of the frame before you take an image. When on a tripod for long exposures I will turn off VR, and when on a tripod with fast shutter speeds I often start with it off, and then try some with VR on too.
Back lit subject - When something that is back lit and the exposure is adjusted for the front of the subject, like a bird on a branch, the chromatic aberration can be very noticeable. There's not much you can do, stop down a little, and shoot RAW and adjust the aberration via the RAW plug-in.
Lens Hood - Most of the time I use the lens hood. It will prevent light from creeping in from the side and messing up the image. It also acts as a good alternative to a protective UV filter, preventing the front element from coming in contact with anything.
Hand holding - Two things you can do to improve your shots: 1) don't hold the lens from the front element. This moves during focusing, and if you are holding it, you can restrict the movement and the lens' ability to focus. 2) remove the tripod mount, or flip it upside down so you can get an even grip on the bottom of the lens.
Focus Limiter I keep the focus limiter enabled at all times, unless I need to focus at a close distance, and then I turn it off. To enable the focus limiter so that only things at a distance are in focus, and so it won't hunt at a close distance, start by focusing on something far away. Then rotate the ring at the front of the lens to A-L for Autofocus-Limit. Then move the slider on the side of the lens to L. One thing I've noticed is that to temporarily allow close focus is that you can click the switch on the side and you can focus on near subjects.
So, if you have under $2k for a 400mm lens I think this lens is a great choice. If you have $5-10k and don't mind shooting from a tripod a lot, get a 300mm f/2.8, or 400mm f/2.8 or 500mm f/4. I've considered getting all of those lenses but for now have held off. I like the mobility of the small 400mm. If I were to be going on Safari in Africa or somewhere in Alaska I'd seriously consider buying a bigger and faster lens, or even renting one... But until then I'm happy with the Nikkor 80-400mmD VR lens.
-Jon
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Saturday, May 3, 2008
Nikon D300 8fps without the battery grip
Some guy figured out a way to make the D300 shot at 8 frames per second (8fps) without the battery grip! I tested it and it appears to work...
This would seem to mean that the Nikon D300 has the ability to shoot at 8fps with the regular single battery, but clipped out that functionality in a variety of places, except this one. In single shot mode, with the flash bracketing enabled, and a bracket set of 9 shots, and no flash connected, it shoots 8fps....
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